This fifth edition of Nez looks at the issues surrounding the use of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfume. What role has chemistry had in building the perfume business of today? Why are natural products so favoured, and are they always preferable to synthetic fragrances?
THE NOSE OF ARCHITECTS
Does architecture offer space to a sense of smell?
Making good use of their noses, each in their own manner contributes to the world of olfaction.
Everything you always wanted to know about smell but were afraid to ask.
– The story of calone
– The sense of smell of insects
– All about cardamom
– Analysing the smells of a holiday home
Invisible yet undeniable, smells feature in all creative fields.
– Extract: Musk, by Percy Kemp
– Huysmans: a spiritual voyage, nostrils wide open
– A smell-binding tour of Camden town
– Creative spirits: Marlène Staiger and Nicolas Julhès
– Flower dance by Goldie Poblador
– A table of desserts by Jan Davidsz de Heem
– Olfactory column by Céline Ellena
Exploring the world of perfume through its origins, its trade secrets, its history and its professionals.
– Bergamot, the prized scent of Calabria
– Interview: Michel Almairac
– Flashback: La Belle Époque
– The fantasy perfumery
NATURAL VS. SYNTHETIC
We examine and debate the use of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumes, viewed from historical, scientific, legal, industrial and marketing perspectives.
– Nature is chemistry! mapping the fragrant molecules of the vegetal world
– The genesis of synthetics: how perfumery entered modernity in the 19th century
– How tomorrow’s scents are invented: the search for new molecules
– Who’s afraid of the big bad perfume? an investigation into the real or supposed dangers hidden in perfumes
– The fetish for naturals: when an ingredient becomes the selling point
– In the garden of lost scents: the forgotten plants of perfumery
– Making an odour more real than nature: the nose and palate can no longer tell the synthetic from the natural
From consumer products to works of art, Nez takes a look behind the scenes of the perfume industry, and also appraises the 30 new fragrances making the news.
– Investigation: the era of computer-assisted perfumery
– Behind the brand: Parfum d’Empire
– Genealogy: Tabac Blond by Caron
– The selection: what’s new and our picks,perfumes, cosmetics and home fragrance
– Point of view: sensorial virtualities
Eléonore de Bonneval,
Delphine de Swardt